The region of Angkor Borei is one of the main sites of pre-Angkorian Cambodia. Several temples were built in brick by King Rudravarman of Funan in the 6th Century in an area about 20km east of Takeo town. Vishnu was his patron deity and many Hindu statues from this site have survived the centuries, the best of which can be viewed in the National Museum in Phnom Penh. Copies of these statues are on display in a small museum in the town of Angkor Borei. The principal shrine at Angkor Borei is Phnom Da, a holy mountain with four caves carved into the north-east wall as shrines.

Kompong Cham is one of Cambodia’s largest towns, located on the banks of the mighty Mekong River. It is a good overnight stop for tours up the Mekong to the north-east or overland on to Laos.

Wat Nokor is an 11th Century Mahayana Buddhist shrine near Kompong Cham. It was rebuilt and dedicated to Therevada Buddhism in the 15th Century and today there are many Buddha images scattered throughout the complex. There is a small contemporary wat located within its walls.

Also known as Isanapura, Sambor Prei Kuk served as the capital of Chenla during the 7th Century reign of Isanavarman. About 35km north of Kompong Thom, it is believed by many to be the most impressive group of pre-Angkorian monuments anywhere in Cambodia. The site consists of three main groups of monuments, mostly built of brick. Much of the origins of Angkor era architecture can be seen in these temples.

Sihanoukville, also locally known as Kompong Som, is Cambodia’s leading beach resort. There are empty white-sand beaches around the headland, unspoilt islands off the coast and the popular Kbal Chhay waterfall near town. As well as relax-ng on the beach, boat trips to Koh Rong and snorkelling and diving are popular activities.

Ream National Park, just 15km from Sihanoukville, is a coastal park occupying 21,000 hectares, including two islands, Koh Thmei and Koh Ses. Sights include lowland and dwarf evergreen forest, long stretches of white-sand beach, submerged coral and seagrass. Mangrove forest within the park supports a rich diversity of flora and fauna.

Kirirom is a beautiful, mountainous area of pine forests and waterfalls. It is the most accessible of Cambodia’s national parks, about 140km south of Phnom Penh, and sees many day-trippers from the capital.

Bokor Hill Station

Bokor is a one of the most wonderful places in Cambodia, a 1000m-high plateau of steaming jungle, shy wildlife and abandoned buildings. Built by the French as a hill station in the 1920s, it was redev-eloped by Sihanouk in 1959 as a casino resort before being abandoned to the elements in 1970. Offer limits until recent years, the empty buildings and majestic views give it a haunting, romantic quality. Nearby Popokvil Falls are impressive in the wet season. Visitors can stay in the very basic ranger station at Bokor or in a comfortable hotel in Kampot.

Kep was Cambodia’s first seaside resort, founded by the French in 1908. Today it has an abandoned feel, but is rich in atmosphere and draws crowds of Khmers at the weekend. Nearby islands such as Koh Tonsay are popular for day trips and local crab is a popular lunchtime treat.

Koh Kong is becoming an increasingly popular gateway to Cambodia, with the opening of a new bridge linking it to Thailand and a new road to Phnom Penh. There are two major waterfalls north of the town and it makes a convenient stop travelling between Bangkok and Sihanoukville or Phnom Penh and Koh Chang.

Mondulkiri feels almost like another Cambodia, isolated and windswept, remote and adventurous. Nestled against the border with Vietnam, Mondulkiri is located at a high elevation, supporting unique flora and fauna among its hills. There are several minority groups (chunchiets) in the province including the Pnong who make up half the population. There are many rare animals found in the province, including elephants, tigers, bears and leopards. Sen Monorom is the provincial capital and nearby are a number of chunchiet villages and picturesque waterfalls. We are able to arrange elephant treks through several minority villages and this can be a highlight of a visit to the north-east. Bou Sraa Waterfall is most impressive in Cambodia. There is an unusual double drop, plunging 15m then 30m into the jungle below. Other popular waterfalls include Romanear, Dak Dam and Monorom.

In the far north east of Cambodia is the ruggedly beautiful Ratanakiri province, home to Cambodia’s ethnic minorities and much of its endangered wildlife. The provincial capital of Ban Lung is a good base for exploring this wild province. Serenely beautiful and surrounded by jungle, Yeak Lom is a freshwater lake within a volcanic crater and undoubtedly Cambodia’s finest natural swimming pool. Elsewhere in the province are several large waterfalls, many gem mines and the opportunity for jungle boat trips. The province also supports several minority groups including Kreung and Tompuon.

One of Cambodia’s outpost towns, just 50km south of the Lao border, it is becoming increasingly popular with adventure tourists making overland journeys between Cambodia and Laos. Situated on the banks of the San and Mekong rivers, it offers a nice slice of real Cambodia.

Battambang is one of Cambodia’s largest town, nestled on the banks of the Sangker River. As well as boasting graceful architecture, the town is a popular place to visit by speedboat from Siem Reap across the lake. Nearby attractions include the hilltop Angkorian temple of Wat Banan, the sacred mountain of Phnom Sampeau and the riverside temple of Wat Ek Phnom.

Formerly a stronghold of the Khmer Rouge, this small town is known for its gemstones and has a beautiful setting on the edge of the Cardamom Mountains. The Thai-Cambodian border is likely to open here in the near future, suggesting a bright future for Pailin on overland tours between Bangkok and Siem Reap.