DAY 2: Anlong Veng via Preah Vihear to Koh Ker
After breakfast we continue north towards Preah Vihear. We arrive at the base of this sacred mount. The snaking road up the mountain is very steep in places and we eventually emerge at the second enclosure of this king of the mountain temples.

We explore the temple on foot and continue onwards to the final level, clinging to a cliff face in the Dangrek Mountains, towering hundreds of metres above lowland Cambodia below. The views from this most mountainous of temple mountains are breathtaking, the foundation stones of the temple stretching to the edge of the cliff as it plunges precipitously away to the plains of Preah Vihear province below.

After lunch en route we head for the remote Angkor capital of Koh Ker. The history of Cambodia is riven with dynastic spats and political intrigue and one of the most memorable came in the 10th century when Jayavarman IV (928-942) fell out with his family, stormed off to the northwest and established the rival capital of Koh Ker. Although the capital for just 15 years, Jayavarman IV was determined to legitimise his rule through a prolific building programme that left a legacy of 30 major temples and some gargantuan sculpture that is on display in the National Museum in Phnom Penh.

We visit the vast Prasat Thom, a seven-storey step pyramid, more Mayan than Khmer, with commanding views over the surrounding forest. Nearby is Prasat Krahom or Red Temple, named after the pinkish Banteay Srei-style stone from which it is built.

There are many more temples in the area, including the five towers of Prasat Ling, each enclosing a giant linga or fertility symbol, the biggest and best found in situ anywhere in Cambodia. We then return to our camp for the night, spending the night in a smart safari tent in the forest near the walls of Prasat Thom.

DAY 3: Koh Ker to Preah Khan
We rise early to enjoy a sunrise across the Koh Ker complex. After breakfast, we travel to the remote complex of Preah Khan. This extremely remote temple is often referred to as Preah Khan Kompong Svay by scholars or Prasat Bakan by locals. The largest single enclosure constructed during the age of Angkor, its total area is larger even than that of Angkor Thom and it is believed to have been the second city of the Khmer Empire, where mighty King Jayavarman VII was educated.

There are several principal structures at Preah Khan, including four-faced Prasat Preah Stung, a trademark of Jayavarman VII constructed in the style of the Bayon, and delicate Prasat Damrei, or Elephant Temple, a small pyramid with two elegant carved elephants ceremoniously adorned by locals. The main structure is of gigantic proportions, but has fallen victim to looting in past years due to its remoteness. However, some carvings remain and the extensive outer walls are in solid shape. After exploring this immense temple, we spend the night in our Angkor safari tent.

DAY 4: Preah Khan via Kompong Thom to Phnom Penh
After the option of sunrise at the remote temple of Preah Khan, we have breakfast and the travel towards Kompong Thom and stop to explore the impressive pre-Angkorian capital of Isanapura, known today as Sambor Prei Kuk. The first major temple city in South-East Asia, the brick temples of Sambor Prei Kuk are a peaceful contrast to their more illustrious relatives at Angkor. We explore the main temples here, including Prasat Tao with its elaborately coiffured lions and Prasat Sambor, with its crumbling sanctuaries. We take lunch in kompong Thom and the continue southwards towards the Cambodian capital of Phnom Penh. We can stop en route to visit the elegant Prasat Guha Nokor, an 11th century sandstone and laterite temple set within the grounds of a modern wat. We arrive in Phnom Penh with time to relax and recover after our adventurous road trip.