Siem Reap to Phnom Penh via Banteay Chhmar, Preah Vihear, Koh Ker, Preah Khan, Kompong Thom
Programme: 5 Days/ 4 Nights
DAY 1: Siem Reap to Banteay Chhmar
Today, we travel northwest from Siem Reap to the incredible jungle temple of Banteay Chhmar, famous for its signature faces of Jayavarman VII. We travel to Svay Sisophon, which is an optional base for the night for those that prefer the comfort of a hotel. We continue north to the enigmatic temple of Banteay Top. Here the central tower has collapsed, only to be rebuilt and resembles a precarious tower of building blocks. The interior includes original wooden supports, a rarity in this tropical climate. We then continue to the main temple of Banteay Chhmar for a thorough exploration. We see the magnificent carvings of Lokesvara with 32 arms, nicknamed lok sam-pee (Mr 32) by Khmers, as well as the beautiful Hall of Dancers, similar to the famous Preah Khan. After clambering about among this sleeping giant, we continue to explore the outer complex, including the outer gate of Ta Prohm, like a smaller cousin of the impressive Angkor Thom gates and protected by a moat. We spend the night in our safari tent under the shadow of a jungle-clad temple with four faces.
DAY 2: Banteay Chhmar to Anlong Veng
After enjoying an optional sunrise at beautiful Banteay Chhmar, we continue to journey into remotest Cambodia towards the magnificent mountain temple of Preah Vihear. We break our journey at Anlong Veng, a former Khmer Rouge stronghold until the end of the civil war in 1998. Now a boomtown, we will take time to visit the former house of military strongman Ta Mok and the gravesite of Brother No 1, Pol Pot. We enjoy dinner at a local restaurant and head for our overnight accommodation.
DAY 3: Anlong Veng to Preah Vihear & Koh Ker
After breakfast we continue north towards Preah Vihear. The snaking road up the mountain is very steep in places and we eventually emerge at the second enclosure of this king of the mountain temples. We explore the temple on foot and continue onwards to the final level, clinging to a cliff face in the Dangrek Mountains, towering hundreds of metres above lowland Cambodia below. The views from this most mountainous of temple mountains are breathtaking, the foundation stones of the temple stretching to the edge of the cliff as it plunges precipitously away to the plains of Preah Vihear province below.
After lunch en route we head for the remote Angkor capital of Koh Ker. The history of Cambodia is riven with dynastic spats and political intrigue and one of the most memorable came in the 10th century when Jayavarman IV (928-942) fell out with his family, stormed off to the northwest and established the rival capital of Koh Ker. Although the capital for just 15 years, Jayavarman IV was determined to legitimise his rule through a prolific building programme that left a legacy of 30 major temples and some gargantuan sculpture that is on display in the National Museum in Phnom Penh. We visit the vast Prasat Thom, a seven-storey step pyramid, more Mayan than Khmer, with commanding views over the surrounding forest. Nearby is Prasat Krahom or Red Temple, named after the pinkish stone from which it is built.
There are many more temples in the area, including the five towers of Prasat Ling, each enclosing a giant linga or fertility symbol. We then return to our camp for the night, spending the night in a smart safari near the walls of Prasat Thom.
DAY 4: Koh Ker to Preah Khan
We rise early to enjoy a sunrise across the Koh Ker complex. After breakfast, we travel to the remote complex of Preah Khan. This extremely remote temple is often referred to as Preah Khan Kompong Svay by scholars or Prasat Bakan by locals. The largest single enclosure constructed during the age of Angkor, its total area is larger even than that of Angkor Thom and it is believed to have been the second city of the Khmer Empire, where mighty King Jayavarman VII was educated.
There are several principal structures at Preah Khan, including four-faced Prasat Preah Stung, a trademark of Jayavarman VII constructed in the style of the Bayon, and delicate Prasat Damrei, or Elephant Temple, a small pyramid with two elegant carved elephants ceremoniously adorned by locals. After exploring this immense temple, we spend the night in our luxury safari tent.
DAY 5: Preah Khan to Phnom Penh
After the option of sunrise at the remote temple of Preah Khan, we leave some time free to explore more of this vast complex. Later we travel towards Kompong Thom and stop to explore the impressive pre-Angkorian capital of Isanapura, known today as Sambor Prei Kuk. The first major temple city in South-East Asia, the brick temples of Sambor Prei Kuk are a peaceful contrast to their more illustrious relatives at Angkor. We explore the main temples here, including Prasat Tao with its elaborately coiffured lions and Prasat Sambor, with its crumbling sanctuaries. We travel towards the Cambodian capital of Phnom Penh.
Hanuman is a member of the Cambodian Association of Travel Agents and the Cambodian Community-based Ecotourism Network. Hanuman was cited in ‘The Guide to Responsible Tourism in Cambodia, Laos & Vietnam'.
