DAY 1: Phnom Penh to Kampi via the Mekong River
We leave Phnom Penh and travel northeast to the bustling provincial city of Kompong Cham. En route, there is the chance to pause at Skuon, affectionately known as 'Spiderville', where it is possible to sample the local delicacy of deep fried tarantula. We arrive in Kompong Cham mid-morning and visit the 'fusion' temple of Wat Nokor, an 11th century sandstone temple with a colourful modern wat set in its central courtyard. There are some intricate carvings at this temple and the kitsch contrast between the Hindu past and the Buddhist present is almost unheard of elsewhere in Cambodia. We then enjoy a local lunch in Kompong Cham.
We follow the Mekong River on the west bank, pausing to visit the pre-Angkorian hilltop temple of Wat Hanchey, offering superb views over the river and surrounding landscape. We continue north until we reach a local ferry crossing to traverse the Mekong. Our road journey continues on east bank, passing through the old river port of Chhlong, home to some of the best examples of French colonial architecture in the country. We then reach Kratie, a sleepy Mekong port and gateway to an encounter with the rare freshwater Irrawaddy dolphin that inhabit the upper reaches of the Mekong in Cambodia. We board a boat at Kampi and travel out to our island camp in the Mekong. The camp is set on a beautiful sandbar, surrounded by flooded forest and abundant birdlife. We enjoy a private dinner on the island with the light of a bonfire and traditional torches.
DAY 2: Kampi and the river dolphins, on to Ratanakiri
We enjoy a private breakfast on our island before heading off to encounter the rare Irrawaddy dolphin which inhabits this stretch of river. We use our motorized boat to access the deep pools where the dolphins are found before switching to local paddle boat to avoid disturbing these gentle creatures. Viewing is commonplace, although it is easier to see the dolphins in the shallower waters of the dry season, than in the swollen river of the wet season. After spending some time alone with these rare creatures, we return to the mainland for our onward journey.
We then continue north on the new National Highway 7 towards Stung Treng. We stop for a local lunch along the way, before veering east towards the red earth of Ratanakiri. We cross the Srepok River along the way, the river depicted in the seminal war film Apocalypse Now, where Martin Sheen travels upriver into Cambodia in search of renegade Colonel Kurtz, played by Marlon Brando. We arrive in Banlung in time to enjoy the refreshing waters of the beautiful crater lake of Yeak Loam, set amid a pocket of lush jungle. The crystal clear water is cool and refreshing after the short walk and there may be some local children cooling off. We then return to Banlung and spend the night in a comfortable local hotel.
DAY 3: Elephant ride and the village of Voen Sai
This morning, we travel by road to a small Brao village that still breeds working elephants. We saddle up and take a leisurely ride through the rubber plantations of Ratanakiri. We follow the course of a small river which our elephants eventually wade across and we descend to the base of Kaa Tien Waterfall. A superb horseshoe shaped waterfall set in the jungle, it is possible to clamber behind the falls and swim in the huge splash pool below. Some of the jungle vines hanging down from the gorge are strong enough for a swing and this is a great way to relax. We walk back to the Kreung village and return to Banlung by vehicle.
In the afternoon, we journey by road to the small town of Voen Sai on the banks of the San River, passing through some pristine stretches of forest along the way. We take a local boat across the river to a Lao village on the other side. We follow the riverbank to a unique Chinese village that has been located here for more than one hundred years. Chinese is still the language of choice among residents and in places it looks like a slice of rural China. From here we continue on foot to another Lao village with a wooden pagoda. We then take a boat up the river to the Tompuon village of Kachon, passing some beautiful sections of river along the way. Kachon is home to a traditional Tompuon burial ground complete with carved effigies of the deceased. Family groups are buried side by side and elaborate ceremonies held after a period of mourning. We return to Banlung by road.
DAY 4: Banlung to Kratie via Stung Treng
After breakfast, we leave behind the red earth of Ratanakiri and travel west along National Highway 19 towards Stung Treng. We travel to the Mekong Blue weaving centre to learn about traditional silk production in northeast Cambodia. Originally established to help vulnerable women in the province, the Mekong Blue project is now the largest employer in Stung Treng.
After lunch in Stung Treng, we continue south to the charming riverside town of Kratie. We stop at the hilltop temple of Phnom Sombok to watch sunset over the Mekong before checking into a comfortable local hotel for the night.
DAY 5: Onward to the next destination
After breakfast in Kratie, we explore the local market and the historic temple of Wat Roka Kandal, home to a handicrafts cooperative. We then travel south towards Chhlong, stopping to visit an old Cham village of wooden houses where traditional basket weaving is still commonplace. We then pass through Chhlong to view some beautiful examples of French-era colonial architecture. For those continuing to Phnom Penh the journey then carries on south through Kompong Cham with a stop for lunch, before arriving in the capital late-afternoon.
For those continuing to Siem Reap, we take a local ferry across the Mekong and pass along the west bank of the river to Stung Trang. We continue to Kompong Thmor and National Highway 6 to enjoy a local lunch. The journey then continues to Kompong Thom (for those visiting Sambor Prei Kuk or tackling a Temple Safari as part of the onward itinerary) or to Siem Reap to begin an encounter with the majestic temples of Angkor.
Hanuman is a member of the Cambodian Association of Travel Agents and the Cambodian Community-based Ecotourism Network. Hanuman was cited in ‘The Guide to Responsible Tourism in Cambodia, Laos & Vietnam'.
