DAY 1: Phnom Penh to Kampi via the Mekong River
We leave Phnom Penh and travel northeast to the bustling provincial city of Kompong Cham. En route, there is the chance to pause at Skuon, affectionately known as 'Spiderville', where it is possible to sample the local delicacy of deep fried tarantula. We arrive in Kompong Cham mid-morning and visit the 'fusion' temple of Wat Nokor, an 11th century sandstone temple with a colourful modern wat set in its central courtyard. The kitsch contrast between the Hindu past and the Buddhist present is almost unheard of elsewhere in Cambodia. We then enjoy lunch in Kompong Cham.
We follow the Mekong River on the west bank, pausing to visit the pre-Angkorian hilltop temple of Wat Hanchey, offering superb views over the river and surrounding landscape. We continue north until we reach a local ferry crossing to traverse the Mekong. Our road journey continues on east bank, passing through the old river port of Chhlong, home to some of the best-preserved French colonial architecture in the country. We then reach Kratie, a sleepy Mekong port and gateway to an encounter with the rare freshwater Irrawaddy dolphin that inhabit the upper reaches of the Mekong in Cambodia. We board a boat and travel out to our island camp in the Mekong. The camp is set on a beautiful sandbar, surrounded by flooded forest and abundant birdlife. We enjoy a private dinner on the island with the light of a bonfire and traditional torches.
DAY 2: Kampi and the river dolphins, on to Mondulkiri
We enjoy a private breakfast on our island before heading off to encounter the rare Irrawaddy dolphin which inhabits this stretch of river. We use our motorized boat to access the deep pools where the dolphins are found before switching to local paddle boat to avoid disturbing these gentle creatures. After spending some time alone with these rare creatures, we return to the mainland for our onward journey. We stop in Kratie to explore the local market and the historic temple of Wat Roka Kandal, home to a handicrafts cooperative.
After a (very) local lunch in the small town of Snuol, we leave behind civilisation and take on the red earth roads of hill country. After Khau Si Ma district, the road snakes up through the mountains that give Mondulkiri its name of 'where the mountains meet'. There is lush jungle hugging the road and locals claim to see tigers on this stretch at night. The scenery is unique for Cambodia and dotted with traditional Pnong villages, the main minority group in Mondulkiri. On arrival in Sen Monorom, we check into a comfortable local hotel for the night.
DAY 3: Bou Sraa Falls and Minority Villages
We leave Sen Monorom after breakfast and head east towards the double drop waterfall of Bou Sraa, one of the most famous in Cambodia. Along the way, we stop at a Pnong minority village to learn a little about their way of life. We may be invited to drink some rice wine, as Pnong villagers are extremely hospitable and welcoming of outsiders.
We continue to Bou Sraa and explore the falls. It is possible to access both drops and there are swimming opportunities for those who want to take the plunge. We enjoy a picnic at the falls and then continue east to the village of Pichenda on the other side of the river. We return to Sen Monorom later in the day.
DAY 4: The Elephant Valley Project
We leave Sen Monorom after breakfast and travel to the nearby Elephant Valley Project which, with the support of the Pnong villagers, rescues and treats domestic elephants who have suffered illness or injury. You will be introduced to the elephants and get to know more about their behaviour, their body language and to learn to direct and control them. After lunch, you will undertake an elephant trek through the stunning Mondulkiri countryside to a waterfall for a refreshing swim and elephant bath. Later we return to Sen Monorom.
DAY 5: Mondulkiri to Phnom Penh
We leave behind the wilds of Mondulkiri, dropping off the windswept, pine-clad hills through steaming jungle back to the lowlands of Cambodia. We are making for the bustling provincial city of Kompong Cham, where we enjoy a local lunch. We arrive in Phnom Penh where the trip ends.
Hanuman is a member of the Cambodian Association of Travel Agents and the Cambodian Community-based Ecotourism Network. Hanuman was cited in ‘The Guide to Responsible Tourism in Cambodia, Laos & Vietnam'.
