DAY 1: Phnom Penh - Sambor Prei Kuk - Kompong Thom
We depart Phnom Penh for the regional capital of Kompong Thom, perhaps pausing in the town of Skuon to sample the local spiders. After lunch in Kompong Thom, we travel north to visit the pre-Angkorian capital of Sambor Prei Kuk, known as Isanapura at the height of its power in the 7th century. This offers a chronological insight into the development of temple architecture in ancient Cambodia and is a magical place, forgotten in the forests. We spend the night in a local hotel in Kompong Thom.

DAY 2: Kompong Thom - Preah Khan
We continue west to the small town of Stung where we leave the main road to begin our adventure to Preah Khan. The vast temple complex lies about 80km north of here and passes through some wild country in one of the most remote parts of Cambodia. We reach the village of Ta Seng at lunchtime where we have lunch and arrange some extra provisions for the night. We spend the afternoon exploring the most important temples at Preah Kahn, including the Bayon-style four faces of Prasat Preah Stung and the central temple which was one of the biggest enclosures built during the Angkor period. It is thought this may have been a very important provincial city during the Khmer Empire. We camp overnight within the temple area.

DAY 3: Preah Khan - Prasat Damrei - Siem Reap
We visit one or two of the smaller temples in the Preah Khan area, including Prasat Damrei or elephant temple, with its elegant carved elephants. Only two remain, as others are now housed in the Musee Guimet in Paris and the National Museum in Phnom Penh. We then return to civilization and the road to Siem Reap, stopping to visit the impressive Angkor-era bridge in Kompong Kdei known as Spean Praptos. We arrive in Siem Reap later in the afternoon.